The Vocabulary of Zigzag Moderne: Laura Theiss A/W 18

Once the largest hotel in New York City, the Hotel St. George was characterised by a bas-relief that featured modern symbols, from skyscrapers to means of transport including buses and trains, steampships and even a dirigible.

The sinuously stylised waves under the steamships and of the smoke rising from the chimneys in the bas-relief didn't break its linearity but contributed to give the scene a certain degree of elegant dynamism.

Laura Theiss' A/W 18 collection, entitled "Skyline", features a series of sleek and sophisticated designs inspired by such dynamic motifs and from the decorative elements of the Zigzag Moderne style.

In her new designs Theiss has broken her traditional knitted patterns with abstract three-dimensional graphic motifs.

The collection comprises a variety of functional knitted and crocheted separates and dresses going from densely pleated skirts matched with cocooning rounded shoulder jumpers to practical modernist sweaters and palazzo pants; from form-fitting dresses with delicate crocheted Art Deco motifs of fans to couture cardigans with sculpted sleeves and drop-waist dresses in mesmerising jewel tones.

The architectural motifs of Zigzag Moderne – originally made in an array of materials including exotic wood veneers, marble, painted terracotta and metal, that can be admired in buildings in New York, Los Angeles and Miami – are the leitmotif of the entire collection.

They form geometrically sharp lines on pants and skirts; they are appliqued diagonally on a top to add a romantic note, they create on a dress surrealist fractures or transform into gentle waves and evoke the intricate vocabulary of shapes and patterns of Sir Eduardo Paolozzi's screenprints "Calcium Night Light" and "Four German Songs".

Lines are elegant and midi skirts and dresses prevail evoking the elongated silhouettes of Erté's female alphabet forms.

The collection is completed by a series of accessories such as gloves and scarves that can be used to complement the designs or add an architectural twist to everyday looks.

Theiss mainly used wool and cashmere for this collection, but, since Art Deco employed synthetic materials such as plastic and metals, the designer also introduced synthetic threads in her textile weave.

Lurex yarns give therefore the designs a futurist twist, while the palette – comprising black, navy blue, dove grey, turquoise, shocking pink, emerald green and burgundy – reunites classical autumnal tones with the colours of an imaginary galaxy.

Zigzag Moderne celebrated modern life and Theiss has created for her A/W 18 collection the ultimate wardrobe for a modern woman – she is fierce, strong, she's nobody's doll and she's the architect of her own fortune and her own future.