Monthly Archives: January 2018

Glimpses of Art in the Wardrobe of the Man-Child: Comme des Garçons Shirt A/W 18

As seen in yesterday's post, there were comic book prints and patchworked grids in Comme des Garçons Homme Plus' A/W 2018 collection. These two themes extended in the Shirt collection and took new meanings and configurations. If Homme Plus represents … Continue reading →

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Inner Rebel, White Shock: Comme des Garçons Homme Plus A/W 2018

Designs with prints of bricks have been a recurrent theme in the history of fashion. They appeared for example on the runways in the early '80s when Cinzia Ruggeri created her "Abito Muretto" (Wall Dress; Spring/Summer 1983 collection). The prints … Continue reading →

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New Approaches to Knitwear: I Am Chen, Angus Chiang & Sean Suen

London-based international showcase for emerging talents Fashion Scout recently announced its winners of The Ones to Watch award for London Fashion Week A/W18 – Maddie Williams, Zhi Chen's I Am Chen, Susan Fang and Kristel Kuslapuu (their show will take … Continue reading →

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The Kinky & The Tailored: Walter Van Beirendonck Men’s A/W 18

It looks like the kinky trend that started in Milan with Jeremy Scott at Moschino, arrived on the Parisian runways as well, or at least it reached Walter Van Beirendonck's. The theme was probably inspired by the designer's new-found interest … Continue reading →

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Madonna, Mollino & The Night Porter: Moschino Men’s A/W 2018 (and Pre-Fall 18)

Until a few years ago it had become popular for quite a lot of young fashion designers name-dropping certain influences to prove how well-educated they were. The Bauhaus, for example, became the fertile territory for many name-dropping exercises even for … Continue reading →

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The Pride of The ASBO Generation: Gosha Rubchinskiy Men’s A/W 18

So far this season's menswear shows have proven that, rather than risking at experimenting with some unknown formula, many designers are playing it safe. Miuccia Prada has for example remixed herself as seen in yesterday's post; Gosha Rubchinskiy is still … Continue reading →

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The Warehouse of Dr Miuccia: Prada Men’s A/W 18 (and Pre-Fall 2018)

There's safety in numbers and Miuccia Prada knows the old adage very well. So for her Men's A/W 18 and Pre-Fall 18 collections, Prada invited four creative studios/designers – Ronan & Erwan Bouroullec, Konstantin Grcic, Herzog & de Meuron and … Continue reading →

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Should Laziness in Fashion Be Celebrated and Promoted As the Original Product of a Truly Creative Mind?

I've often thought that the fashion industry could be a genuinely amazing place where all sorts of creative minds could work together. Yet the modern fashion industry is also sickeningly vapid and, the more you spot sloppy and lazy examples … Continue reading →

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Double Dystopian Moods: Jun Takahashi’s Undercover Vs Takahiromiyashita The Soloist Men’s A/W 18

Notorious for organising bizarrelly botched showcases such as the one we explored in yesterday's post, Florence's Pitti Uomo trade show is luckily also well-known for special projects like the double bill runway that on Thursday evening took place at the … Continue reading →

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And Deliver Us From the DJ Turned Designer (and From El Charro Belt Buckles and Paninari As Well…)

Close your eyes and rewind the tape of your memory to Milan, Italy, circa 1985-86. Now stop. Play. If the geolocation software of your memory works fine you will find yourself around Piazza San Babila. The place is crowded with … Continue reading →

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