A pool is an architectural structure that can be interpreted from metaphorical points of view and linked to social and personal experiences.
Athletes may see a pool as a place where they train on a daily basis; owning a house with pool is a sign of wealth and luxury, but pools are also places where ordinary people can improve certain health conditions, where children can play and have fun and where families gather and people meet and share experiences.
In more recent years the high maintenance costs of pools meant that quite often local governments threatened to shut a few of them in different communities all over the world, without thinking about the social aspects interlinked with these spaces.
Delpozo's creative director, Josep Font, moved from pools as the main inspiration for the fashion house's S/S 18 collection, showcased during New York Fashion Week at Pier 59 Studios to the live accompaniment of Roberto Carlos Lange and Helado Negro. Font is an architect and explored pools from the visual point of view of Slovakian photographer Maria Svarbova.
In her images of swimming pools a basic palette of blue and white is often broken by the colours of the swimmer's suits and caps; besides the architectural linearity of the space is interrupted by the swimmers standing in the water or lost in a reverie outside the pool.
The stillness and quietness or her subjects surrounded at times by Art Nouveau architectural elements or by backgrounds of blue tiles, can be disquieting and leave you to wonder if Svarbova is shooting in abandoned places, populated by phantom swimmers.
Svarbova's palette of red, white and aquamarine reappered in different sections of the collection that opened with architectural daywear with pleated and folded motifs employed as decorative elements, comprising functionally elegant looks such as a white blouse paired with pleated trousers and a simple neon yellow belt.
Font broke the monotony of neutral shades via bright and bold hues such as neon touches and occasional beaded and feathered embellishments. Sportswear was characterised by sculpted curves and swirling ruffles.
The designer then continued to sculpt his fabrics turning a jacket into a blooming flower and eventually introduced a second more ebullient inspiration – composer Xavier Cugat.
The pool transformed into a place of social interaction, inspiring fun garments in bold prints like enlarged red, yellow and orange paisley motifs in cotton and silk gazar, while Svarbova's aqua green turned into the aquamarine hue that characterised the evening gown donned by Abbe Lane singing accompanied by Cugat in Mario Monicelli's film "Donatella" (View this photo).
In most of Font's garment for this collection one shape, the circle, prevailed: it traced curves in tops, skirts and dresses, forming voluminous yet light silhouettes.
More geometrical figures appeared in the honeycombed looks inspired by the pool tiles, such as an symmetrical cocktail dress decorated with a simple bright yellow bow and three waving ruffles.
The knitwear offer was romantic with light feathers and embroideries of exotic flora inspired by the Diphylleia, a flower that turns translucent when it rains.
The show closed with a series of multi-coloured tulle gowns in beige, pink and yellow or red and aquamarine with silver lame flowers and puffed tulle sleeves. Most pieces were accessorised with chic raffia sandals and a bow shaped (the bow is a staple of the house) woven straw turbans.
Font has become well-known for choosing at least two arty inspirations in his collections and for reworking them in a very clever way in Delpozo's "prêt-à-couture" designs, creating a single narrative with multiple twists. So far he has always coherently delivered one collection after the other, combining (without stealing…) art with tailoring and feminine looks. You wonder why then the fashion industry that swears to love art and calls everything "architectural", doesn't seem too excited about his impeccable designs. Maybe he is just too knowledgeable and therefore not so hip for the currently vapid fashion industry…
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