Carcel Is The New Black

In a few recent posts focusing on architecture we looked at projects offering solutions to contemporary social issues and emergencies.

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The fashion industry may be first and foremost a glittery glamorous world of fakeness, but there are every now and then designers and labels trying to bring some genuine changes, while offering consumers the chance to create a better world. Carcel is among those few labels that have chosen to make a social mission the heart of their collections. 

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Founder Veronica D'Souza – a social entrepreneur who also started Ruby Cup, menstrual cups designed to lessen absenteeism among school girls in Africa – was inspired to launch the project after she visited in 2014 a work program for prison inmates in Kenya.

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Here she realised that most women in jail came from poor backgrounds and had been incarcerated for non-violent crimes due to a lack of opportunities. 

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D'Souza then visited Peru, a country with a high-rate of drug-trafficking sentences for young women from poor backgrounds and low levels of education, but a place well-known for its Alpaca wool.

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In women's prisons all over the country D'Souza met a few people who already knew how to work on manual knitting machines and soon a project was born.

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Thanks to a partnership with the National Prison System of Peru and a local production manager inside the women's prison in Cuzco, D'Souza put together a manufacturing team to make a compact and basic men and women's wear collection of knitwear separates in a palette of versatile bold colours. All the pieces were created by designer Louise van Hauen.

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In October Carcel launched a Kickstarter campaign to fund a sustainable collection made with the help of 10 female inmates (though the company would like to bring the numbers to 180) in Peru.

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Carcel reached its DKK 150,000 goal in one day, hitting in November a new goal – DKK 351,950, a sum that allowed the company to buy new knitting machines.

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Some of the women involved in the project share their thoughts and their biographies on Carcel's site: Gloria, a mother of three from a poor background, transported drugs to provide for her family, got caught and ended up in prison; "Anabel" is instead innocent, but has been in prison for more than two years since she was accused of aggravated robbery after answering a call from a friend.

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From the stories on the "Journal" section of Carcel's website you clearly understand that work keeps them sane, while providing a way to make some money to buy things they may need in prison, such as toiletries, or help their families and children. In the long-term such projects can break the cycle of poverty since they teach new skills to the women involved and guarantee them a fresh start once they're out of jail.

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Carcel's project is not new considering that there are a few organisations or associations out there producing garments and accessories made by inmates. But the label differentiates itself from other ones for having chosen to manufacture a collection with high quality yarns and promising consumers to distribute it on a global level. 

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It will be interesting to see if Carcel opts to take part next year in yarn fairs as well and bring in this way its ethical message to a wider audience of professionals and buyers. In the meantime, the label is planning its next collection: as stated in yesterday's post, it will be made from organic silk and will be manufactured by women in prison in India. 

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