It is sometimes surprising how, while looking at a fashion collection, your mind may be conjuring up images of specific artworks or architectures. Take for example Ports 1961's Resort 2017 collection: its moods, shapes and colours seem to evoke the abstract collages of Kurt Schwitters or the palette of his Merzbau.
Known as "The Cathedral of Erotic Misery" or "KdeE", the project consisted in a corner of his studio, but then extended to most of the rooms in his family house in Hanover, Waldhausenstrasse 5 (destroyed during an Allied bombing raid in 1943).
At times these spaces featured mainly white elements and grotto-like formations filled with collages, photographs, and sculptures of his friends.
Some critics define the Merzbau as a series of abstract dioramas, a room of jutting angles, and immersive shapes and silhouettes.
In a way you could maybe say the same about Ports 1961 Cruise collection: creative director Natasa Cagalj experimented with new shapes and silhouettes, applying every now and then bits and pieces of fabrics here and there almost as if she were creating a Dadaist collage.
The results were oversized coats with rounded silhouettes, casual shirts, and pants with drawstring ties at the ankle, while wide-leg trousers were also integrated into formal suits.
Printed abstract doodles or patches of random fabrics (Cagalj is known fo saving raw selvages of fabrics) decorated shirts and dresses in a collagist style, but the most interesting pieces were the ones in red, blue and white woven jacquard fabrics that turned exposed threads into fringes.
Though the collection seemed to respect certain key trends that are currently quite fashionable (rounded silhouettes, oversized pieces, deconstructed and collaged elements) it certainly didn't looked ridiculous or unwearable, but it offered an arty twist to a practical wardrobe. Besides, it could be considered as a celebration of quality fabrics, from heavy twill to light cotton, all Made in Italy.
The Made in Italy label replaced the Ports logo in a brave attempt at celebrating the brand's textile suppliers and was turned from description into decoration and embroidered on a blue shirt or replicated into woven stripes in a blanket check motif, to remind us that fashion is not about wearing your heart on your sleeve, but about opting for long-lasting quality pieces.
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