Quite often in fashion, designers and critics talk about transnational identities, but it is worth reminding to students and young designers willing to go down this path that they should try and avoid the major traps they may fall into, such as literally copying traditional clothes and appropriating specific designs, infringing copyrights as seen in previous cases on this site. So, how can you get inspired by traditional garments without blatantly copying them? Well, don't stop at the garments in front of your eyes, but look at the silhouettes and at the construction as well. Here's two examples for a brief fashion study.
The first image shows an appulik, a garment from the Arctic Worlds display at the Brighton Museum & Art Gallery: long and streamlined, it features an elongated section at the back that calls to mind the shape of a tailcoat; the garment also includes a wide hood. The appulik is only worn for celebrations at church, or during Christmas, New Year or birthdays, so you don't wear it every day, but only on special occasions.
The second garment comes from the V&A collection: it's a men's costume from the Mughal court (the Mughal Empire was based in the Indian Subcontinent and extended over it and over Afghanistan) and it is characterised by a voluminously ample silhouette.
The costume was based on the jama, a tailored gown tied at the side, and the paijama, tapering trousers which were loose at the top and close-fitting at the lower leg. The costume was completed by an elaborate turban (pagri) and a long decorative waist-sash (patka). Fine Kashmir wool shawls were often draped over the shoulder, sometimes in pairs, a fashion started by the Emperor Akbar.
So here's the dilemma now: what will you opt for, a streamlined silhouette that may feature at the same time an oversized hood and some quirky elements like tailcoats or a voluminous design with a more complicated construction? Whatever you opt for, remember, get inspired and learn from the past – don't just copy it.
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