The last few posts analysed the Spring/Summer 2016 collections and focused on the fast pace of contemporary fashion. Rather than looking forward, let's take a break today and look back at what was fashionable in 1949, via this cover of Italian magazine Annabella (from my archives).
The young women portrayed on the magazine are modelling sporty Haute Couture pieces by Schiaparelli (first and fourth models from the left) and Dior (second and third models from the left).
Schiap interpreted sport via a stripy blouse with a relaxed silhouette and a buttoned up top in red velvet (the sepia tones of the magazine obviously don't make it any justice…); while Dior's looks include a plaid blouse with two squarish pockets and a deerskin suit with a blouse decorated with a bow tie.
The designs pictured here can't be really pigeonholed in the "sport category", but verge towards a sort of subtle casual elegance and they are obviousy different from the dynamic designs we have in mind nowadays when we talk about "sporty" pieces. Yet the ensembles portrayed look equally interesting as they provide an insight into women's wardrobes slowly but relentlessly changing at the end of the '40s in accordance with their new roles in society. The clothes pictured and the carefree attitude of the models almost anticipate the designs favoured by the main characters – five independent women – in Antonioni's Le amiche.
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