Needlework Notes

In a previous post we mentioned Mary Linwood, the needlework artist portrayed by John Hoppner (first picture in this post). Linwood became well known for creating striking copies of old master paintings in crewel wool, in which the brush strokes were rendered by stitches. 

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She achieved great fame from the time of her first London exhibition in 1787 and a copy of a painting by the Italian artist Salvator Rosa was sold for more than the original. 

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Needlework is actually going through a very fashionable Renaissance: quite a few contemporary fashion collections feature nowadays embroidered elements and motifs, while the Royal School of Needlework (RSN) in the UK has been organising exhibitions and invents, raising new interest from younger generations.

Founded in 1872 and based at Hampton Court Palace the RSN currently offers a range of embroidery courses from day classes for beginners, a Certificate and Diploma course, a Future Tutors programme and a Degree programme – a BA (Hons) Hand Embroidery for Fashion, Interiors, Textile Art – while also organising courses in the UK, the USA and Japan.

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Clients have so far included fashion designers, Oscar nominees, cathedrals, private individuals and the Royal Family, but this summer marked a bit of a shift towards art and conceptual pieces as seen also in a previous post.

Art-wise, a piece by Kate Barlow, entitled "Smuggler", was selected among 12,000 entries and displayed at London's Royal Academy Summer Exhibition in the Mixed Media Category. 

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Barlow stitched life-like budgerigar was made using 50 shades of thread, worked one strand at a time (this technique is called "silk shading") to create a painting like effect. Measuring 10cm high by 8cm wide, the piece took 140 hours to complete.

Until tomorrow there is instead the chance to see the work of the first RSN Scotland graduating certificate students at the Glasgow Art Club (185 Bath Street, Glasgow G2 4HU). 

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For what regards RSN in-house exhibitions and events (at Hampton Court Palace in Surrey), you can still catch up until December with "Whitework". Co-curated by Dr Clare Rose (RSN Degree Contextual Studies Lecturer) and Dr Susan Kay-Williams (RSN Chief Executive) the event shows how whitework was once part of everyday life with women and young girls spending hours creating these intricate works of art for very practical uses.

The event includes rare pieces from the school collection such as antique collars, cuffs and sleeves; christening robes and baby caps; fine underwear, handkerchiefs, and dresses; table cloths and bed linens as well as a few more unusual items and more contemporary applications of whitework by the RSN students and graduates.

RSN_Whitework

Although this technique is usually worked in white or cream thread on a white or cream ground as the name suggests, it covers many different stitches and a variety of techniques including Carrickmacross, Hollie Point, Cutwork, Pulled threads, Hardanger and Ayrshirework. Highlights include a fine handkerchief from the Paris Exhibition of 1867 representing the Egyptian Pavilion; a set of miniature garments made in 1844 comprising skirt, boned bodice, bloomers, petticoat, nightdress, shirt and socks; and bedding featuring a cottage scene.

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If you're a needlework enthusiast there is a variety of courses, workshops and events opening from October on that you can join in, or you may be interested in visiting the Autumn Knitting and Stitching Show 2015, but you can keep updated with all these appointments on the RSN site or check out the work of the students on the RSN Instagram page and get inspired by it.  

Royal School of Needlework founder Lady Welby stated that she wanted to see high quality hand embroidery in galleries alongside fine art. Looks like her wish of seeing it on par with other fine art techniques has finally been granted.

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