Feminism, Art and Fashion: Rosa Genoni

Let's continue the feminist thread that started on Friday by focusing on Rosa Genoni. Born in 1867 in Tirano, near Sondrio, Genoni was an Italian feminist designer, socialist journalist and lecturer. The Italian delegate of the Women's International League for Peace and Freedom (WILPF), she opposed the war and the Fascist regime and fought to improve the labour conditions of women.

Before turning into a fashion designer she worked for Milan-based fashion house H.Haardt et Fils, that mainly reproduced gowns by famous French designers such as Paquin, Charles Frederick Worth, and Doucet.

Genoni was among the first ones to realise that art could inspire innovative styles when it came to fashion and she created designs that moved from classic Roman and Greek art, the ancient Egypt and Italian paintings, that were meant to be donned at gala nights, at horse races, but also during more dynamic events such as trips in dirigible.

Her designs were soon favoured by the celebrities of the times, including actress Lyda Borelli who opted for Genoni's designs for the costumes in the comedy Le bonheur de Jacqueline (staged in Milan in 1908 with the title Il matrimonio di Giacomina) by Paul Gavault.

At the International Exhibition that took place in Milan in 1906 Genoni presented pieces inspired by Italian Renaissance paintings, employing Italian textiles. One of her best designs remains a pale silk satin and ivory tulle dress covered in floral and beaded embroideries, sequins and golden threads that was inspired to Botticelli's "Primavera".

The contrasting colours of the chenille, glass beads and silk threads employed of the embroideries allowed Genoni to achieve three-dimensional and realistic decorations and the gown won her the first prize in the Decorative Arts section at the International Exhibition.

The dress is currently part of the "Donne protagoniste nel Novecento" exhibition at the Costume Gallery of Palazzo Pitti, Florence, a celebration of different female icons from the 1900s through dresses, gowns and accessories.