Book Alert: Fetishism in Fashion by Lidewij Edelkoort, Edited by Philip Fimmano (Frame Publishers)

Originally derived from the Latin language, the word "fetish" was mainly referred to an object – also a man-made one – believed to have supernatural powers.

William Pietz's fascinating studies of the fetish explored how the term originated in the coast of West Africa between the 16th and 17th centuries, developing from the late medieval Portuguese feitiço orginally referred to the objects used in religious cults by the natives. In our society the word fetish has diversified, though, and could be approached and analysed from a wide range of perspectives.

The volume Fetishism in Fashion (Frame Publishers), the official catalogue of the 2013 edition of Mode Biennale in Arnhem, by trend forecaster Lidewij Edelkoort, edited by Philip Fimmano, looks at the contemporary meanings of fetishism.

The book analyses the main subject through carefully selected and styled images and shoots, and a series of essays by a variety of contributors, including artists, designers, researchers, journalists and historians.

An opening essay introduces to thirteen different fetishes spotted by Lidewij Edelkoort – from nudism and sado-masochism to more unusual ones such as infantilism, nipponism, spiritualism, absurdism, romanticism, legendism, consumerism, regionalism, patriotism, nomadism and shamanism.

Fetishism fans may be familiar with topics such as the corset as tackled by Valerie Steele, Director and Chief Curator of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology (her essay is accompanied by images of Iris Van Herpen's designs), or animal, hair (and braided hair in particular), colour, tattoo, hybrid, shoe (a theme linked with elevation and power that moves from Venetian calcagnini) and mask fetishes.

Features such as a profile of Leigh Bowery or an interview with Ravage and John Sillevis about the male identity and menswear, are intertwined with fashion shoots by Erwin Olaf, images of Guinean ceremonies and customs by Namsa Leuba or surreal photographs by Rotterdam-based artistic duo Huub Schilte and Jacqueline Portielje.

Shorter yet equally intriguing features tackle fish fetish, thread fetish (the latter explored by embroidery artist Karen Nicol), Aoi Kotsuhiroi's objects, or materials capable of transforming humans into alien-like beings like the ones in Bart Hess' films and images.

Andrea Branzi explores in the book philosophy, neo-primitivism and the primitive condition, while religious fetishism is presented through an interview with a Dominican Friar who also talks about the importance of religious robes and traditional garb.

The best contributions analyse unusual themes: "The Secret of the Apron" by Dominique Fallecker looks at this garment from the point of view of history, fashion and society; "No Sex Please, We're Syrian" by Malu Halasa explores instead the link between politics, revolution, the raucous sexual humour of the Middle East and the kinky lingerie sold in Damascus' souk.

Edelkoort and Fimmano also looked at fetish in interior design, with Studio Pepe Heykoop's chairs made with scraps of leather stitched on the skeleton of abandoned furniture, and Formafantasma's glass and charcoal experimentations.

Though the volume is more about the textures and tactile sensations that some materials or objects may transmit to us, it is a visual feast for the eyes and, rather than shock, is set to inspire not just fetishists of all ages and tastes, but creative minds interested in the visual arts.