Moving from yesterday's post we will be looking in the next few days at other interpretations of the surface focus trend. For today let's look at some of the surface elaborations in the garments showcased at the stand of Italian worsted spinning company Safil during the latest Pitti Filati.
Founded in 1954 by Fernando Savio in Biella, the company has a production capacity of 7,000 tons a year and employs almost 700 people, producing yarns for various sectors, from high-tech flame retardant, anti-shock, anti-cut, antibacterial and antistatic materials to yarns for classic fabrics, blends ideal for sportswear and hosiery, luxury mohair yarns and materials for the interior design and the automotive industries.
For the Autumn/Winter 2013-14 season, Safil introduced extra-fine and super-fine pure wool or wool blends with noble fibres, fancy mohair yarns, light bouclés in merino extra fine and wool/acrylic blends.
The strongest point in the collection for the next season is the Manhattan yarn, a blend of the best merino extra-fine wool with an innovative fibre exclusively produced by Safil, the MC12 (12 microns, therefore finer than cashmere).
The Manhattan yarn guarantees low pilling, anti-wrinkle performance, machine washability, good brethability and high comfort (the yarn is also Oeko-Tex certified). To prove these qualities, Safil asked two young designers, both graduates of Milan's Politecnico, Gaia Bonfanti and Mattia Bernardi, to create a series of designs characterised by modularity and rigorous architectural lines borrowed from Donald Judd's "Specific Objects" and with a palette evoking artworks such as Sandy Skoglund's "Fresh Hybrid" installation.
The best surface elaborations were definitely the ribbed motifs that evoked Judd's stacks and his aligned or cantilevered geometric structures derived from mathematical progressions and from the theme of seriality.
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