In the last few weeks my mind has been focused on studies of the body silhouette, the robotisation of the female body and architectural shapes applied to human forms.
In my researches/lectures I naturally ended up mentioning Thierry Mugler, so it was a lucky coincidence to spot this 1990 suit by Mugler in one of the windows of Paris' king of vintage couture Didier Ludot.
With its extra-wide shoulders, narrow waist and full hips the jacket perfectly shows how Mugler had a passion for exalting and exaggerating female proportions, a passion derived from his admiration of the architectural discipline mixed to his love for sci-fi films and comic books as well.
The suit makes me think a lot about that Mugler quote that says "The greatest tribute I can offer to women is to sculpt the shapes of their bodies". Indeed the designer managed to sculpt the body and eroticise it through rigorous tailoring, a thing that many new designers (including the Formichetti/Kremer duo behind the recent Mugler collections…) seem unable to do as focused as they are on "empowering" women by undressing them rather than by covering them in tailored armours.
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