Today is supposed to be Haider Ackermann's big day at Pitti since the designer will present for the first time a menswear collection at a special event tonight.
Moving from this event, I would like to take a step back in time and go back to a Pitti edition from 1964 when there were still very few menswear fashion houses and companies presenting their collections in Florence.
That year Brioni, Datti, Franzoni and Litrico presented at the trade show their menswear collections for the Spring/Summer 1965season, focusing on tailored silhouettes based on craftsmanship and highly refined techniques, two key points many fashion houses are keeping firmly in mind even nowadays to attract new and loyal customers.
Brioni opted for single-breasted three-button jackets characterised by a slim and smart silhouette.
The main fabrics chosen comprised wool, mohair, gabardine, flannel, silk, cotton and linen together with stretch fabrics, mainly employed to achieve practicality in sportswear and in casual garments.
Plaid and stripes were used in some suits to provide variation as the collection was mainly based on blue shades, with just a touch of beige, green, brown and black.
Tweed, mohair, gabarden and flanelle prevailed together with plaid and stripy designs.
Blue was the most popular colour, though there was also a touch of green, brown, beige and black.
Datti managed instead to inject a sort of classic mood in dynamic modern styles without renouncing to practicality.
Datti's jackets were slim and fitted and with rather small lapels and made in patterned fabrics employed to create contrasts with solid colour trousers.
The tailor also launched a new type of short waterproof coat (just under the knee) that was considered as the most successful item in the collection since it guaranteed the wearer elegance, style and freedom of movement. For the evening Datti created a collection of summer suits in bright shades.
Litrico seemed to have in mind a young 60s yuppie: his single-breasted three-button jackets featured narrow shoulder lines that contributed to give the body a sort of squarish line while the straight trousers highlighted an elongated silhouette.
The tailor injected into the collection a touch of originality via printed silk, linen and cotton waistcoats based on a grey, blue and beige palette.
The lining of Litrico's garments was unique since it featured Italian coat of arms.
Franzoni was the most exotic of the designers who presented their collections at that edition of the Pitti trade fair.
Taking inspiration from a trip to Africa, his palette evoked the colour of sand, lagoons, thick woods, dark nights and also featured a peculiar sea blue nuance inspired by the Tuareg tribe.
The line of Franzoni's designs followed the natural curve of the body, with normal shoulder lines, slightly cropped jackets and slim trousers.
Franzoni's passion for details was clear in the pockets and lapels, while the fabrics chosen for the evening wear were similar to the ones employed for day wear, though the evening suits were slightly more formal.
The four designers showed great maturity and style through these collections that also managed to capture the interest of the international fashion press of the time.
Hopefully we will see some interesting examples of modern menswear styles in the next few days at the Pitti and also tonight at Haider Ackermann's.
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