Superficially, the life of a fashion designer looks glamorously fun, but it can be a hard business especially if you’re stuck in a creative rut or if you’re called to resurrect a house with a long tradition and a consistent heritage.
Marco Zanini started working as creative director at Rochas two years ago and, though interesting, elegant and manufactured keeping quality well in mind, Zanini’s collections for Rochas seemed to lack something special, creative joy.
It often looked as if Zanini was too scared to go a step further and reach out beyond the fashion house’s archives. Yet things have changed with this collection, also thanks to cinema.
Influenced by the comedy Cactus Flower, directed by Gene Saks and starring Goldie Hawn (Toni) and Ingrid Bergman (Stephanie), Zanini took a trip backwards in time, visited the 60s and revised them in a joyful way, playing with materials and colours.
The collection was essentially based on the two main characters, exuberant Toni, the girlfriend of Julian, and more conservative Stephanie, Julian's nurse and fictitious wife and the palette – comprising golden yellow, bright coral red and vivid aquamarine shades – often called to mind the costumes worn in the film by the two main actresses, while the bows pinned to hips and necklines somehow referenced the movie title.
Being the two characters so different, it wasn't surprising that Zanini's collection often displayed a dichotomic trend.
There were soft and conservative beige or brown trouser suits and coats and bolder outfits in which the designer daringly mixed a leopard spotted coat, turquoise trousers and an emerald green jumper, or matched golden trousers with yellow brocade tops and beige pinafore dresses with bright aquamarine shirts with exaggerated collars.
Zanini's trip into the late 60s and early 70s complete of iconic square-toed flat boots, wasn't entirely youthful retro, though, but featured enough feminine and luxurious cardigans and cashmere coats to make his customers – and retailers – happy.
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