Muted Stripe Comeback

Capannelle_1893 If you leaf through fashion history books that feature designs from the mid-to-late 1800s, you will find quite a few examples of vertically or horizontally striped dresses.

Chintz and muslin dresses in colourful and cheerful or more subdued stripes or with striped sleeves were in fact rather popular at the time, especially in dresses characterised by fitted bodices and voluminous skirts.

I’ve always been fascinated by such designs and I also have a small collection of interesting black and white images from this period of time, comprising drawings and photographs, that are quite useful if you want to draw comparisons and find connections with contemporary collections.

I actually resorted to these images after seeing some of the looks for the next season.

StineGoya_AW10_1 During Copenhagen Fashion Week, Stine Goya employed large vertical stripes in her trousers and jumpsuits characterised by a loose and relaxed silhouette and in her sharply tailored skirts.

The Danish designer matched such pieces with black or grey garments, while bursts of vibrant mustard yellow, intense cinnamon and delicate wisteria added lively splashes here and there and prints of dreamy and barren landscapes called to mind the main theme of the collection, entitled “La Ville Fantôme” and inspired by landscape photographer Ansel Adams and painter Georgia O‘Keefe, the artists who met for the first time in New Mexico in 1929 and shared a mutual love and admiration for the natural world.

MarcbyMarcJacobs_AW10 Stripes got horizontal in New York: Marc
Jacobs' collection
featured a fur top and skirt in a sort of striped tweed pattern while
a striped cropped jacket in shades of light and dark grey provided a break from the military mood on the Marc by Marc Jacobs' runway (take note, that's the sort of garment you will see soon at a Zara/H&M near you…).

It was also interesting to see the stripy treatment being applied to fur.

Dennis Basso designed rather classic voluminous fox fur coats and jackets completed by alligator and raccoon mitts, DennisBasso_AW10_a but added a bit of innovation by replicating striped motifs in chinchilla capelets, coats and cropped jackets.

Basso's experiments weren't as innovative as Chado Ralph Rucci's though.

Rucci is well known for the exquisite and sophisticated details of his designs and for the techniques he employs to create them.

ChadoRalphRucci_AW10_a In his collection for the next season the designer played with sheer/matte dichotomies, mixing tulle and jersey and applied fur stripes on an organza coat, allowing the wearer to reveal a little bit of skin and employing in this way the old stripey trick to create a sort of optical illusion and achieve a sexier look.

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