Superficially looking at Marc Jacobs’ A/W 09 collection for Louis Vuitton you couldn’t help thinking about the 80s references that appeared throughout his most recent collection at New York Fashion Week. Yet this time "the decade that fashion forgot" wasn’t on Jacobs’ mind.
The designer's collection for Louis Vuitton had a special muse behind it, the exhibition “The Model as Muse: Embodying Fashion” that will be opening at the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute in May.
The exhibition will be an exploration of the most legendary models, from the early days of fashion until our days. Jacobs, who will be the Honorary Chair at the gala that traditionally inaugurates the event, thought for this collection about the French models who inspired some of the most important fashion houses during the 80s, among them also iconic Inès de la Fressange.
As a whole the collection was chic, fun and sexy, based on three main principles, draping, colours and decoration.
Madame Grès used draperies in a dynamic and expressive way, but Jacobs replaced her discreet elegance with his own penchant for the glamorous and sexy, using drapes to accentuate the body shape, enrich and decoratively invade the body of the models or give movement to an outfit.
There were black lace tops, skirt suits in black with bold and bright details – from green to fuchsia – used for long belted sashes and ribbons and dresses with over-decorated bulbous and voluminous sleeves featuring elaborate ruffled decorations.
The curtain-like draped motifs that have invaded the recent catwalks were instead less original even though used to achieve interesting effects on skirt suits and gloves. Squarish jackets and coats with oversized shoulders made an appearance in camel and red, and there were also very unnecessary cropped trousers opening up in a frilly bell-shaped motif around the knee.
The best outfits were the nude dresses and tops with draped bodices, the skirts with ruffles or wave-like motifs and the printed bubble skirts matched with leggings encrusted with crystals and gems.
Many outfits were accessorised with fabric rabbit ears, though (luckily) the focus was naturally on bags, shoes and necklaces.
The colorful paper chain-like necklaces in leather were striking, the zipped or laced up thigh high boots and shoes with inverted conical heels pierced by big pearls gave a touch of kinkiness to the collection, while the iconic LV monogrammed bags appeared aplenty in all their splendour enriched by details such as colourful frills, ruches, golden studs, metal padlocks and tassels.
Yes, it was cheerful and fun, two much needed things in gloomy times. Whether it was also extremely original is questionable, yet it featured enough bags and garments that will make wealthy LV fans and celebrities rush out to buy them.
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