From sculptural to surreal: Calvin Klein and Isaac Mizrahi

There haven't been too many designers at New York Fashion Week who presented collections featuring outfits with well-sculpted silhouettes. Luckily, Francisco Costa at Calvin Klein restored the equation with a collection that mainly included dresses and coats with well-cut and almost futuristic lines.

Minimalist coats had asymmetrical necklines, jackets, dresses and skirts seemed simple from a distance, but, once you looked better, you could detect they were actually formed by different panels cleverly overimposed one on the other and, in some cases, kept together by a single button.

Cuts seemed to asymmetrically slash strikingly beautiful coats while the most interesting pieces were the ones in which Costa tried to experiment with different textures, to create interesting motifs by irregularly piercing felt to give it a lace-like effect or by pleating fabric and decorating with it a one-shoulder dress. Also the evening wear was interesting, in particular the yellow dresses that injected in the collection a tiny bit of optimism.

The emphasis was definitely on timeless pieces with a precise construction and architectural shapes created by using different fabrics. The architectural theme continued in the velcro strapped boots, shoes and sandals with rectangular cut-outs in the heels.

In the last few days the majority of designers who showcased during New York Fashion Week showed a rather pessimistic approach to fashion, but Isaac Mizrahi went for that touch of optimism and surrealism that you desperately need when things go really wrong.

At Mizrahi's everything was sporty but chic, colours exploded in chunky jumpers made by interweaving strips of wool; ample sleeves characterised coats and jackets; soft plaid blankets seemed to form long skirts; sequinned evening dresses sent out sparkles while those handbag hats that were slightly Elsa Schiaparelli put you instantly in a good mood. But then "Smile" was the title of the show and let's hope that, as London Fashion Week opens, there will be fewer worries around and plenty to smile about.