Lack of variation seemed to be a recurring theme, or rather sin, throughout the latest catwalks at New York Fashion Week.
There seemed to be an unnecesary abundance of vests at Oscar de la Renta and just too few proper evening gowns, while Marchesa opted for a sickeningly sweet glamour (somebody please stop the frothy, frilly trend now, we're all grown up and we're not little princesses…). It was also a shame that, while providing fun headbands, bejewelled gloves and bags, Alexandre Herchcovitch didn't seem to be able to move away from his palette of choice, with red and greyish blue printed tops, flapper girl like dresses and sequinned (though vertical) rugby striped skirts.
3.1 Phillip Lim's menswear was a bit too sparse to be really striking and new, while Lim's womenswear got accidentally stuck in the Sixties and, in some cases, the designer struggled to get away from there.
Mongolian fur jackets and vests could have been avoided, yet there were some quite beautiful print dresses, silk blouses with ruffles running along the sleeves and sharp trouser suits, but the best pieces were the cropped tuxedo jackets-cum-coat that had a wonderful rockish edge and the functional warm parkas with soft fur lining.
Temperley London tried to provide more variety and, though not all the looks were fresh, nor there were really extraordinary pieces, the collection as a whole was engaging.
There were definitely references to the Orient in the embroidery, pompoms and tall fez-like hats (though the latter were in some cases a bit too Louis Vuitton Autumn 08), but everything was filtered through modern inspirations.
There were quite a few versatile pieces, from high-waisted harem pants and black shirts with pleated motifs to short leather jackets paired with body-con dresses and short dresses with an empire line broken by a vertical zip.
Colours appeared in the pompoms and in the geometrical motifs of the mini-dresses that sometimes evoked the colours of the Tibetan "Bangdan", but the best piece was an entirely black coat in which the fabric had been pleated and folded origami-style.
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