Fans of minimalism and of dark colours have probably written off from their fashion diaries the 80s as times of excess and, in some cases, of bad taste. Marc Jacobs is instead among those people who, fashion-wise, see the 80s as a great decade of fun and experimentation.
Inspired by the 80s, he sent down his catwalk around 60 models, all sporting different looks, styles and make-up and, to create a continuity between his recent work for Louis Vuitton and his Marc Jacobs’ collection, he added to his designs a few references to Stephen Sprouse. While black and grey prevailed at the very beginning of the catwalk, the main colour palette seemed indeed to be heavily inspired by Sprouse’s neon shades.
The catwalk started with sweaters in grey with asymmetrical zips paired with tight trousers or skirts, but, gradually, colours popped up in the different accessories, from scarves and tights to long leather gloves, bags and shoes.
Metallic shades appeared on dresses and sculpted jackets matched with bright blue denims, then it was the turn of coats, jackets and capes in bright and optimistic nuances.
Jacobs’ party dresses and washed jeans were fine, but it was his outerwear that truly did the trick, especially the kimono-like coats and capes with ample sleeves in vivid yellow or red, the fuchsia coats or short green jackets with bold square shoulders, the short turquoise coats paired with yellow and blue dresses and tights, the wide violet ponchos and a few jackets in black and metallic prints with extravagant and elaborate shoulders.
Some of the colour combinations reminded me of Stephen Sprouse’s Polaroid of Debbie Harry wearing a green dress and fuchsia tights, but the various hairstyles created by Guido Palau, the make-up by François Nars and the atmosphere seemed to be entirely lifted from the Polaroids taken in the 80s by art director and designer Maripol with just a touch of Slava Tsukerman's Liquid Sky.
As a whole the collection wasn’t really on par with the designer’s creations for Spring 09, yet Jacobs should be praised for the energetic imprint he gave to his collection and for the optimism he injected in it.
Besides, Jacobs should also be congratulated for drastically reducing his guest list and avoiding extravagant sets, letting in this way people focus on the collection rather than on the annoying buzz, excitement and hysteria that usually surround it.
Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos
http://www.boxxet.com/my/badgeBN.80.15.js?boxxetId=u23036
Member of the Boxxet Network of Blogs, Videos and Photos