United Bamboo and Alexander Wang: Tales of Contrasts

There is something I can't honestly stand: clothes for grown-ups that look like school uniforms. I find them unnervingly pretentious, childish and generally too tamed for my tastes.

Yet even the designs that evoked the most school uniforms and such likes, were cleverly turned by Thuy Pham and Miho Aoki into very acceptable looks. United Bamboo's Autumn 09 collection featured plenty of uniform-like grey, though to create contrasts, grey pinafore dresses were worn with emerald green organdy blouses or light jumpers, while checked shirts with white collars were paired with fish scale like skirts in dark mustard yellow or green.

There were also some print dresses in black with bright nuances of orange and red, neat little cardigans and skirts with ruffles in an Autumnal palette decorating the hem. Though a few light and elegant cocktail dresses provided variety, there was actually no need for such pieces in this collection which was indeed interesting for the cut of the garments, especially the coats that had a rather sculptural touch.

But if tailored school uniforms, innocence and chic were the keywords at United Bamboo, Alexander Wang was instead inspired by sexy, aggressive and modern women.

Wang's designs usually scream "power-dressing", though not in an embarrassingly 80s sort of way. Skin tight mini-dresses, some with asymmetrical cut outs, cycling shorts and leggings were among the looks on the catwalk, but Wang showed with this collection that his "girls" are slowly growing up and therefore trying to include in their wardrobes more luxurious items in different materials.

This was clear as Wang's collection also featured coats with fur sleeves and crocodile inserts, long leather motorcycle jackets in white or black with fox tails in matching colours that created a rather excessive fringing motif on the sleeves, barbaric tops in organdy and fur paired with cycling pants or all in one leather suits with luxurious fur sleeves for the perfect "Planet of the Apes" look.

Skin-tight suits with cut outs reminded of Hervé Léger's bandage wraps and there were echoes of Thierry Mugler's sexy amazons here and there, yet there were also sensible black sheath dresses and waistcoats matched with skirts with asymmetrical fastenings that, for their minimalist cut and choice of fabric, could be considered as perfectly wearable not only at rock'n'roll parties and other similar events, but also as daywear. Being also quite versatile these pieces also allow Wang's customer to style them as they prefer.

A nice touch was added by Wang's accessories: the designer cleverly matched each outfit to his shoes, bags or belts and I'm rather curious to see what he is going to come up with for his menswear collection which will be launched for the next Spring season.