Well-organised Journeys and International Wardrobes (remember, you’re not the inadequate one)

In an article published in the fashion magazine Bellezza in 1957 and entitled "Viaggi ben organizzati e guardaroba internazionali" (Well-Organised Journeys and International Wardrobes), Italian journalist Irene Brin focused on how particular haute couture creations could be worn in different occasions, helping in this way a star on a world tour to minimise her wardrobe.

Among the various examples Brin made there was also a blue coat dress by Antonio De Luca that could be worn in three essential ways: without its white collar it was possible to wear it under a cape, without the jacket it became a sun dress and, paired with the proper jewellery, it turned into a dinner or cocktail dress.

Brin highlighted in this article one important quality some clothes have, interchangeability. The journalist explored this theme further in another feature published two years after on Bellezza and entitled "Ho scelto un guardaroba per il giro del mondo" (I have chosen a wardrobe for my trip around the world). Brin reviewed in her piece the clothes she had chosen for her second trip around the world in the Spring of 1959.

Among the outfits there was also a jade green shawl by Antonio De Luca that, rather than being a simple accessory, was a vital piece since it could be wrapped around the bust and, hanging down behind the dress, could be used as a replacement for a cape or an evening coat.

Both these articles by Irene Brin could still be considered as excellent examples of how to minimise your wardrobe without forgetting style and elegance. This is an important point that too many people have forgotten about. Indeed as the various fashion weeks kick off there is one main problem for those people who are more or less involved in them: what to wear.

The most annoying attitude is actually the one displayed by some fashion journalists and critics who think that going to fashion weeks equals displaying the entire contents of their wardrobes. The truth is that if you're sent to a fashion week and you're not Anna Wintour, Anna Piaggi, Suzy Menkes and such likes, you have one great advantage: nobody will try and kill themselves to get a picture of you and, though looking stylish helps, you shouldn't be feeling inadequate if you don't have enough clothes and accessories, in fact you should leave the quantity to the fashionistas and the trend-obsessed celebrities and aim for the quality.

So if you're going to a fashion week as a journalist or as a member of the audience I have just three tips for you: 1) create your own look by digging in your own wardrobe or in your family's/friends'; 2) borrow some pieces from a friend who is a designer so that you can wear something exclusive and champion his/her creations; 3) invest into a coat, trench coat or jacket that looks iconic and stylish and that will last for a long time and wear it in different ways (even with an old outfit to make it look new), like Brin would do.

Now when I say "wear it in different ways" I don't mean "bring with you your entire wardrobe", as you wouldn't have the time to wear it and, besides, you have to keep in mind the extra weight restrictions on flights. What I mean is make your jacket or coat look different by pairing it with one or two accessories.

I have one item in my wardrobe that allows you to play a lot with it, Camilla Wellton's black “Kimonoat v2.0” (now available also from Catwalk Genius – the site also allows to buy stakes in Wellton's collection) which is an updated version of the Swedish designer's checked “Kimonoat” (which appeared on this blog in a previous post).

The sleeves of the new "Kimonoat" are slightly more stylised than the ones Wellton did for her previous creation and an asymmetrical collar, that adds a bit of drama to the garment, has also been included. The thick fabric contributes to give a theatrical effect to the coat, but practicality hasn't been forgotten as side pockets were added, though you can also let an illicit camera or recorder slip inside the ample sleeves (for all your James Bond needs…) in case you need some secret extra space.

Here are three of my favourite “Kimonoat” disguises. The first one is rather casual and it’s inspired by Italian comic anti-hero Diabolik. The black of Diabolik's suit is echoed in the colour of the coat, while the yellow fedora hat, violet woollen gloves and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac scarf are a reference to the colour used in Mario Bava's Danger: Diabolik film.

Iconic Iris Apfel inspired the second look: I added some chunky pieces of jewellery (see separate image) I found in my mum's collection. Rather than wearing the necklace under the coat I wore it on top of it (sorry you can’t see it too well from this pic…I was on a rush…).

The coat is paired with a military beret from the Italian army that I stole from my brother a long time ago when he finished his military service (it was compulsory in Italy for men to serve in the army until a few years ago; while the military service was absolutely useless for most men, their girlfriends and sisters had great fun reusing bits and pieces from their uniforms and accessories…).

The third look is my favourite one and it’s the most distinguished. It’s created by adding a vintage veiled hat decorated with Mori's jewellery (mentioned in a previous post) and latex gloves by Atsuko Kudo (the simplest and cheapest version you can find on the latex specialist's site, as ribbons and decorations can frankly be a bit too much).

This look has got a double function: in the morning you can put your veil up and go about your ordinary business; in the evening and at parties you can put your veil down and look more elegant, hide your tired eyes or simply keep at bay undesirable people (and I can assure you there are enough undesirable people to keep at bay during supposedly fashionable parties…).

I could go on and on about the “Kimonoat” and how to make it look different, but I'd rather stop here and leave you with a final tip: no matter if you're going to a catwalk as a member of the audience or as a journalist, just remember, build your own style, be confident and wear it well. You will soon realise that you aren't inadequate, but the fashion victim sitting next to you wearing a collage of items from all the latest designer collections and looking like a sad clone out of a trendy fashion magazine, is certainly inadequate, and also lacks any creativity, originality and individuality.