Berlin Fashion Week: c.neeon Vs Sonia Delaunay

A few days ago I read on the Mercedes-Benz Berlin Fashion Week site that the Autumn/Winter 2009-10 collection by c.neeon, entitled “One cannot live without champagne and gypsies”, was inspired by Ukrainian-French artist and fashion designer Sonia Delaunay.

As soon as I saw the collection that was presented in Berlin this afternoon, I thought about two images portraying some designs by Sonia Delaunay: Georges Lepape's illustration for Vogue of a dress that featured an optical print in red and blue zigzags and a painting of three women wearing three creations with dark geometrical prints and matching hats for the portfolio Ses Peintures, Ses Objets, Ses Tissus Simultanés, Ses Modes (1925).

In the past Berlin-based Clara Leskovar and Doreen Schulz – AKA c.neeon – took their inspiration from other artists such as Mondrian and Tamara de Lempicka (Autumn/Winter 2007-08), this time though the design duo perfectly balanced the geometrical prints and shapes of Orphism and Simultaneism, exploring the colours and contrasts of Delaunay's chromatic scale.

Like Delaunay, the duo also tried to explore the effects of light on different colours and the effect the prints achieved when the body moves. Delaunay's vibrating prints became the basis for casual men and womenswear creations with an elegant touch added.

Though most of the collection featured leggings, asymmetrical tops or matching suits in relaxed silhouettes, there were also a few interesting and elegant dresses with fluid lines. Prints in blue and red prevailed, but there was also an interesting combination of grey and blue tones.

There was also a slightly architectural look added by another inspiration for this collection, Swiss architect Max Bill with his functional designs.

The collection was matched by Mykita’s retro-inspired “Ingrid” and “Herbie” glasses from “Collection No. 2” that looked geometrically perfect thanks to their bulky and oversized frame and screw-less hinges and by Rike Feurstein's sculptural hats.

The latter were characterised by clean cut lines and a colour palette that seemed to be inspired by c.neeon's collection.