The irresistible kitschness of 1967 gladiator sandals

The main models are in brown or black leather, but there are also python and patent leather versions, ankle and knee-high versions, multi-strap ones, bi-coloured or in metallic colours, flat-soled or with high heels and wedges, decorated with buckles, zips or fringes, in luxurious materials or in vividly coloured plastic, and the list could go on and on.

I’m obviously talking about the summer 2008 trend, that unhealthy obsession called gladiator sandals. Rather popular during the mid-‘80s, in their flat-soled version with several horizontal straps up to just above the ankle, the gladiators sandals are back with a vengeance.

Now, I hate trends that become massive as they prove the lack of personality of most of the people who adopt them, but I seem to have grown a real aversion to gladiators mainly because they are the sort of shoes that don’t suit 80 per cent of the world population, the remaining 20 per cent being made up of silly celebrities who somehow manage to influence fashion. I guess the worst thing about gladiators is that they look obviously better on people with matchstick legs (that is your average celebrity…), while they have the power of giving a tree trunk-like aspect to everybody who has slightly thicker legs.

Bored by this trend I took refuge this morning into my collection of Italian fashion magazines from the ‘60s and discovered a few rather theatrical models of gladiator sandals that I actually like. The magazine I was leafing through was the May 1967 issue of Arianna, a rather popular women’s magazine in Italy between the '50s and the early '70s.

This issue featured a photo shoot styled by Anna Piaggi and Anna Riva that presented all the latest trends for what regarded beachwear and summer clothes. There are a few pictures that I love with models wearing A-line dresses made out of the African hand-made sarong called “kikoi” (traditionally worn by Kenyans living by the coast), designed by Bou-Boutique, paired with extraordinary gladiator sandals in leather, with leopard straps and studs or with leather disks and studs, designed by Giovanna Maltese for Fiorucci.

An alternative version of these rather aggressive gladiator sandals was inspired by stirrups and was available in orange and gold or brown and white and it was designed by the Parabiago-based Calzaturificio Marangoni for Gulp. Though extremely over the top and evoking S&M atmospheres, I must admit the Fiorucci 1967 gladiators, both in their ankle and knee-high versions, are my favourite ones. I can’t really resist their kitschness and their very special aggressiveness. I guess these are the sort of gladiator sandals Romans would have worn to rule the world.

If you're searching for modern and slightly futuristic gladiator sandals have a look at those ones created by Valentim Quaresma. This young Portuguese designer recently won the Accessories Collection of the Year Award at the International Talent Support event that took place in Trieste around ten days ago. Quaresma's collection combined technological and mechanical elements and his gladiators are made in silvery mesh and feature an elaborate metal heel. They make me think more about Barbarella rather than about a Roman gladiator, but, hey, they're still more original than the ones that are so supposedly fashionable this summer.